A Thoughtful Gift

This extraordinary enamel ring features a pink and deep purple pansy flower set with a gleaming white pearl. "Pansy" comes from the French word "penser," meaning to think. Pansies have long been associated with thoughts, particularly the romantic kind. In the language of flowers, a gift of pansies symbolized that the giver was thinking of receiver. Because of this symbolism, pansies were often incorporated into jewelry, making them a most "thoughtful" gift.

The ring is made of 14 karat gold and carries the double "B" mark of Baskin Brothers, a New York City jewelry company that operated from the early 1900s through 1950.

 

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

3-14018

Gleaming Guilloche

This week our trove has two treasures, stunning sterling necklaces from the famed Norwegian jewelry design firm of David-Andersen. Formed of graceful stylized leaves, one necklace is in brilliant blue enamel while the other is snowy white. The translucent enamel is applied over a machined background, a technique known as guilloche, which gives the enamel depth and makes it shimmer.

Gold- and silversmith David Andersen founded the company in 1876 in Oslo, 

Norway. His skill and artistry attracted many patrons and by 1892 he opened a second shop. David Andersen’s son, Arthur, took over the company upon his father's passing in 1901. In honor of his father, Arthur changed the name of the company to the hyphenated David-Andersen. Born in 1875, Arthur  graduated from the Norwegian National Academy of Craft and Art Industry in 1893. Under Anderson, the company began producing the enamel jewelry and wares for which it has become world famous. Although the company during its long history followed artistic trends, such as art nouveau, art deco, and modernism, it also took inspiration from traditional Scandinavian design, as well as from nature. David-Anderson jewelry is renown for its simple and refined forms, accented with vibrant enamel. The company is still family owned, now into the fourth generation.

Each necklace is marked both "Sterling" and with the assay mark "925 S." In addition to the company's "D-A" and stylized scales in a circle marks, there is a "W" mark for jewelry designer Willy Winnaess, who worked for David-Andersen in the 1950s.

 

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly.

12834-1150, 1151

Hail! Fairy Queen. . .

adorn'd with flowers,

Attended by the smiling hours,

'Tis thine to dress the rosy bowers

In colours gay

"The Return of May," Felicia Dorothea Browne, 1808

This enchanting fairy, framed by delicate flowers, foliage, and flittering butterflies, is an example of elegant enameled glassware that became popular in the late 1800s. Against the soft rosy background of cranberry glass, an artist skillfully painted layers of white enamel, creating the effect of a carved cameo. In fact this style of enameled glass was produced to compete with the more costly cameo glass. Cameo glass was typically made of two fused layers of glass, a lighter (usually white) outer layer over a contrasting darker shell; the piece was then cut and etched to create a cameo-like design. 

The subtle shading and layering gives the images a three-dimensional effect. 

Underneath, the vase is faintly acid-etched "FLORENTINE ART CAMEO." This was one of the lines registered by Lazarus and Rosenfeld, a British company that specialized in high-end glassware, china, and pottery. In 1883, they established their glass refinery in Kamenické Šenov in Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic).  The refinery ceased operations in 1934.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

15885-1

Marvelous Mesh Mandalian

This exquisite enamel antique handbag is from Mandalian Manufacturing Company, founded by Turkish immigrant Sahatiel Gabrabed Mandalian. Coming to the United States in 1890, in 1906 he entered into a partnership with Eugene A. Hawkins and started producing mesh bags as Mandalian and Hawkins. Mandalian became the sole owner of the company in 1915. Some say that the intricate designs on his handbags reflect the traditional designs found on rugs woven in his native Turkey. Of beautifully crafted metalwork with the company's patented "Lustro-Pearl" finish, this pretty purse would be a prize for any collector of vintage clothing or the perfect accessory for a Halloween flapper costume.

Mandalian was granted 14 patents from 1921 to 1935. While most concern improvements in the manufacturing and enameling of mesh bags and accessories, he also received patents for 

tap dancing shoes and an improved movie projection screen. 

Mandalian's sturdy and colorful purses were popular in the 1920s and 30s. In 1944 the company was sold to rival purse maker Whiting and Davis.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New but things can sell quickly!

15562-121

Artwork for Your Ears. . .

These one-of-a-kind earrings in vibrantly-colored cloisonné are the creation of master enamelist Ricky Frank. Although Frank dabbled with an simple enamel kit as a child, it wasn't until after he graduated from college with a degree in psychology that Frank became interested in creating complex cloisonné jewelry. Inspired by some beautiful cloisonné jewelry he saw at a craft show, Frank set up a studio in his parents' basement and began teaching himself how to make enamel jewelry. Not only did he have to learn the techniques, Frank said he had to learn how to express his emotions and creativity. Once a self-taught enamelist, Frank is now a renown teacher, sharing his 44 years of experience both on-line and at art schools and workshops throughout the country.

Starting with a silver or gold base, Frank must solder fine wires to create channels for the translucent powdered glass enamel. These channels form the outlines of the image. Then the powdered glass is sifted into the channels and heated until it melts. It takes skill and patience to achieve such delicate demarcation of the rich colors. The gleaming green hillsides, brilliant rainbows, and the celestial sun and moon are all images often found in Frank's creations. Frank often further enhances his jewelry with pearls and natural gemstones.

Each earring is signed on the back by Frank.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

1-81797