A Brooch Beyond Reproach

This big beautiful antique brooch in shimmering sterling is the epitome of art nouveau design, featuring a lovely lady framed by her flowing tresses and sinuous flowers. Art nouveau was an artistic movement from the 1890s through 1910s that looked to nature for inspiration and is exemplified by undulating lines, giving the feeling of movement. It was a reaction against staid academic art and the overdone and eclectic Victorian decor. The term, meaning "New Art," was first used in the 1880s, but was popularized by the opening in 1895 of the Maison de l'Art Nouveau, an art gallery in Paris. 

The brooch has a "C' clasp, so-called because the pin is held closed by a simple curved piece of metal; this type of clasp is generally found on jewelry from the 1850s through the 1910s, before the safety clasp came into wide use. On the back, the pin carries the intertwined "U" and "B" mark of Unger Brothers, surrounded by the words "Sterling 925 Fine."

Unger Brothers was founded by Herman Unger and his four brothers in the early 1870s. The company is renown for its intricate and beautifully crafted art nouveau sterling jewelry, as well as dressing table sets , perfume bottles, pocket knives, cigarette cases, belt buckles, and other luxury ware. Unger Brother was sold in 1919.

A Toast with the Most!

With New Year's Eve just around the corner, these shimmering sterling silver wine goblets will certainly add special sparkle to your champagne toast!

Underneath they carry the rising sun mark of Asahi Shoten of Yokohama, Japan. Active in the early-to-mid 1900s, this company was known for its high-quality sterling silver flatware and tableware, with Japanese motifs or in sleek Art Deco western style. The company usually used higher grade silver in its creations. This piece is marked "Sterling" and "950." Typically sterling silver is denoted by the assay number "925," indicating that the item contains 92.5 percent silver. These glimmering goblets carry the assay number "950," meaning that they are 95 percent silver.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

3-22571

 

Yearning for Yurman?

 If you have a yen for jewelry created by famed designer David Yurman, we have a collection of pieces by this maker currently in our trove, including this sterling silver and pave diamond ring.

The ring alternates diamond-set bands with twisted cable wire, the latter used in Yurman designs since 1982. In 1997, Yurman became the first major designer of fine jewelry to set diamonds in sterling silver jewelry with the introduction of the Silver Ice collection. This ring reflects both of these Yurman innovations.

Inside the ring is stamped with the David Yurman initials and "925," the assay mark for sterling silver.

The David Yurman Company was founded in 1980 by David Yurman and his wife, Sybil. Both partners had an extensive background in art. Among their many artistic endeavors, David made sculptures using direct welding, a technique developed by Picasso in which a torch is used to melt and shape bronze rods, while Sybil experimented with raku pottery. They traveled in artistic circles on both coasts, eventually meeting in New York City in 1969, where David had set up his sculpture studio. They became major figures in the American studio craft movement, which sought to elevate crafts to fine art through innovation and experimentation, and collaborated on designing wearable art. In 1971, Sybil wore a bronze necklace sculpted by David to a gallery opening, resulting in multiple orders for the piece. Subsequently, in 1973, the Yurmans founded Putnam Art Works, designing unique artisanal jewelry pieces. They married in 1979 and founded their company the following year.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

17125-33

A Grand Entrance. . .

. . . is what your table will make when you set it with this stunning sterling silver flatware by Wallace Silversmiths. The pattern is known as "Grand Colonial" and our trove currently boasts multiple place settings as well as a wide variety of serving and side pieces. 

The pattern was designed by William S. Warren in 1942. It was one of six patterns designed by Warren, which he dubbed "Three Dimensional" because the design is visible from the front, side and back. Five years later, Warren wrote a book entitled "Wallace Beauty Moods in Silver" discussing his Three Dimensional patterns. The understated and elegant design with its scrolled tip and graceful curves echos the fine proportions of Chippendale furniture and the early American colonial epoch.

Wallace Silversmiths was founded by Robert Wallace, the son of Scottish immigrant and silversmith James Wallace and his wife Irene. After completing his apprenticeship at for the Meriden Britannia Company, in 1833, Robert opened his own silver works, producing only spoons. After moving his factory to Wallingford, Connecticut, he produced a variety of flatware and cutlery, both in sterling and in a nickel alloy known as "German silver." In 1871, Robert and two of his sons rechristened the company R. Wallace and Sons Mfg. Co.; they also spun off a new company, Wallace Brothers, which produced silver-plated flatware. Robert died in 1892, and his sons and son-in-law took control of the company, which would become the largest manufacturer of tableware in the world. The company was re-named Wallace Silversmiths in 1956 and continues to design sterling, silver plate, and stainless steel flatware.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

 

Bullseye!

This stunning sterling silver necklace features an unusual design of a flight of arrows converging in the center of a target. 

  

Beautifully crafted and constructed, this substantial necklace curves comfortably around your neck.   

The necklace is stamped on the back of the pendant both "Sterling" and "925," the assay mark for sterling silver, guaranteeing that the metal is 92.5 percent silver. As indicated by the incised "Hecho in Mexico," this unique piece comes from our neighbor to the south; it is also marked "Taxco GRO." "GRO" stands for the Mexican state of Guerrero and Taxco is a city there renown for its fine quality silver and skilled silversmiths. Taxco has long history of silver mining, dating back to pre-Columbian times. Hernan Cortes later claimed Taxco's silver for Spain, and himself, but as the silver veins ran out and other richer mines were located, the mines were closed. In 1716, Spaniard Don Jose de la Borda discovered another rich vein of silver in Taxco and mining began anew. However, during the Mexican War for Independence, the Spanish mine owners destroyed the mines and fled. 

A new chapter in Taxco's silver history opened with the arrival of American William Spratling in the late 1920s. Spartling, an architect, settled in Taxco, attracted by the beauty of the quiet and isolated city. Although he originally settled in Taxco to pursue a writing career, he soon found himself intrigued by Mexican art and crafts. Spratling learned the art of silversmithing and built a workshop hiring local craftspeople to create his designs, often inspired by Aztec and Mayan art. He also started an apprenticeship program to train silversmiths and soon many of his protégés were opening their own workshops. The completion of a highway opened Taxco to tourists and when WWII interrupted the European jewelry industry, high-end American department and jewelry stores began to feature Mexican gold and silver jewelry. The Mexican aesthetic also fit well with the sl]eek lines of the mid-century modern movement.

Although its silver mines have long been closed, Taxco remains a center for silver, with hundreds of workshops creating sterling jewelry and decorative pieces. This vintage piece is signed "Beto." In the first early part of the 20th century, Mexican silver items were marked typically marked "silver" or "sterling," with an assay number indicating the finess of the metal, and often, in addition to "Mexico or "Hecho en Mexico," with the name of the town, as well as the maker.  In 1948 the Mexican government introduced an eagle mark, but it was replaced in the 1980s with a number and letter system, beginning with a letter identifying the location of manufacture (such as "T" for Taxco), as second letter of the silversmith's first or last name, followed by the registration number of the maker.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

1677-1494

Beautify Your Boudoir. . .

. . . with this stunning sterling silver vanity set enameled in glowing guilloché.  This five-piece vanity set would look lovely on any dressing table.

The translucent aqua enamel is applied over a machined background, a technique known as guilloché, which gives the design depth and makes it shimmer. Guilloché enamel was popularized by renown Russian jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé in the 1880s. 

This substantial set is clearly marked "Sterling" and with a model number. Although the maker's mark is blurred, it appears to belong to the Thomas Company, founded in Attleboro, Massachusetts, in 1920. Overall the set is in wonderful condition considering its age and fragility. There is some slight chipping on the shoehorn and the mirror needs to be replaced (something that could be custom cut by a glass company), but the set displays beautifully as is.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

16378-225

 

Pass the Salt. . .

. . . and the pepper and the mustard. Inside this antique case. . . .

. . . is the answer to all your finer condiment serving needs in stunning sterling silver. Fitted in its original satin and velvet lined presentation case, such splendid silver sets were the epitome of elegant dining in Victorian and Edwardian England. 

The set consists of two pepper pots, a mustard pot, two open salt cellars, and three matching serving spoons. Other than needing a little polishing, the pieces are in remarkable shape for their age. 

The pieces carry British silver hallmarks. The top mark is the maker's mark, in this case the initials "R.P." in a shield for Robert Pringle and Sons. The firm was first founded in 1835 by Robert Pringle and renamed Robert Pringle and Sons in 1899. They were known for their fine sterling pieces and made a wide variety of tableware and other items. The firm was in business through the 1960s. The trio of marks below indicate the purity of the metal, where the piece was assayed, and when it was made. The first mark, a lion, indicates the piece is .925 or sterling silver. The center shield contains the stylized leopard's head assay mark for London and the final stamp is known as the date mark. Beginning in the 1500s, the London assay office each year issued a date mark. The date mark uses a cycle of twenty letters of the alphabet in a shield, with different combinations of font and shield shape for each cycle. This particular mark would indicate that this exquisite set was made in 1908.

Al posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

3-8670

 

 

Gleaming Guilloche

This week our trove has two treasures, stunning sterling necklaces from the famed Norwegian jewelry design firm of David-Andersen. Formed of graceful stylized leaves, one necklace is in brilliant blue enamel while the other is snowy white. The translucent enamel is applied over a machined background, a technique known as guilloche, which gives the enamel depth and makes it shimmer.

Gold- and silversmith David Andersen founded the company in 1876 in Oslo, 

Norway. His skill and artistry attracted many patrons and by 1892 he opened a second shop. David Andersen’s son, Arthur, took over the company upon his father's passing in 1901. In honor of his father, Arthur changed the name of the company to the hyphenated David-Andersen. Born in 1875, Arthur  graduated from the Norwegian National Academy of Craft and Art Industry in 1893. Under Anderson, the company began producing the enamel jewelry and wares for which it has become world famous. Although the company during its long history followed artistic trends, such as art nouveau, art deco, and modernism, it also took inspiration from traditional Scandinavian design, as well as from nature. David-Anderson jewelry is renown for its simple and refined forms, accented with vibrant enamel. The company is still family owned, now into the fourth generation.

Each necklace is marked both "Sterling" and with the assay mark "925 S." In addition to the company's "D-A" and stylized scales in a circle marks, there is a "W" mark for jewelry designer Willy Winnaess, who worked for David-Andersen in the 1950s.

 

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly.

12834-1150, 1151

Astounding Squash Blossom

This stunning sterling silver and coral necklace was crafted by skilled Navajo silversmith, Fatoya Yazzie, renown for her contemporary take on traditional designs. 

This style of necklace is known as "squash blossom," named after the decorations dangling from the sides. Although the squash is an important crop for Southwestern tribes, the Navajo word for these designs means "bead that spreads out." The name "squash blossom" may be the result of a  mistranslation or misunderstanding, but this style of bead has been created by Navajo silversmiths since the late 1800s and the "squash blossom" name appears to have been around almost as long. Some think the squash blossom design is actually a representation of the crown-like tip of a pomegranate, a design element often found in early Spanish clothing and jewelry. The red coral was introduced to Native American silversmiths by European traders. 

The crescent-like pendant is known as a "naja." It originated in Moorish Spain as an amulet to ward off evil and the design is believed to have been brought to the Americas by Spanish conquistadors. 

The back of the naja is stamped "Sterling" and with the artisan's initials, "FY."

 All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New but things can sell quickly!

15878-3

Superb Pitcher

Summer is the time to enjoy a tall cold glass of iced tea or lemonade and this stunning sterling pitcher is just the the thing for serving your guests such refreshing libations.

Underneath, it is stamped "Sterling 925," but its hand-hammered design gives a clue to this shimmering silver pitcher's origin. . . .

The shoulder of the pitcher is adorned with in high relief with stylized flowers. Known as "Aztec rose," this pattern appears widely on vintage Mexican sterling, from flatware and serving pieces to jewelry. The roses are rendered in repoussé, meaning that they were shaped by hammering from the reverse side. The skilled silversmith then added further detail by engraving or stamping lines in the leaves and petals.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

15735-242

 

Grasping at Straws. . . .

which is what you'll want to do when you see these sparking sterling silver drinking straws from the esteemed Tiffany and Company (Next-to-New has a set of four!). Each comes with its original Tiffany blue cloth bag.

Each straw is also stamped on one end "Sterling" and "Tiffany & Co." We have all heard how bad disposable plastic straws are for the environment, as they are non-biodegradable, not recyclable, end up in waterways and the ocean, and endanger wildlife. These shimmering sterling silver straws are reusable  and therefore a very classy to do your bit for the environment!

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

1-80971

 

Outstanding Unger Brothers

This pair of elegantly understated sterling silver candlesticks are by the renown American silver manufactory of Unger Brothers, established in New Jersey in the 1872. The firm was famed in the late 1800s and early 1900s for its exquisite sterling, ranging from elaborate repousse art nouveau pieces to more classic designs. 

Underneath is the Unger Brothers intertwined "U" and "B," a mark used until 1919.  Now over a century old, these handsome candle holders need just a bit of polishing to bring back their gleaming beauty.

Glorious Gucci Necklace

This simple yet exquisite cross necklace is from the famed Italian fashion house of Gucci.  The cross is of rich dark wood, trimmed in sliver, hanging from a substantial sterling chain.

In addition to the Gucci hang tag, the clasp is also marked with the company's name, as well as "Ag 925," the assay mark for sterling silver, meaning that the metal is 92.5 percent pure silver.

One of the best known high-end fashion houses in the world, Gucci was founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci. While working in hotels in Paris and London, Gucci studied the high-quality luggage used by the hotels' patrons. Upon returning his native Florence, Gucci established a shop offering finely made and classically designed leather luggage and handbags created in his atelier. With the help of his three sons, Gucci added shops in Milan and Rome and expanded the inventory to include footwear, silks, and knitwear. By the 1950s, Gucci had stores worldwide. Wealthy jet-setters and movie stars flaunted Gucci's iconic leather goods and clothing, making Gucci an international status symbol. In fact, "Gucci" has become an adjective to indicate that something is expensive and high-quality (on the other hand, the term "Gucci gulch" describes the cluster of highly-paid lobbyists waiting outside of a legislative hearing room). Later Gucci added jewelry, watches, and eyewear to its growing fashion lines. It is highest-selling Italian brand and is considered one of the most recognizable and valuable brands worldwide.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

15062-45

Captivating Conchos

This beautiful belt is stamped from sterling silver, studded with sky-blue turquoise stones.  It is by renown Navajo silversmith Marcella James.

The oval pieces are referred to as conchos.  The word derives from the Spanish "concha," which refers to a conch or seashell.  Conchos were used by the Spanish to adorn saddles and bridles, as well on clothing and as jewelry.   Concho belts have become a tradition among the Navajo Indians, who began making conchos around the 1860s, at first hammering them out of silver coins.  Originally, the conchos were strung on leather woven through center slots in each piece, but later Navajo silversmiths began to solder loops on the back for a belt to slide through, allowing the center of the concho to decorated.  There are two basic types of concho belts, with either the conchos strung on leather or connected by links.  A link concho belt can be fastened with a hook almost anywhere on the belt, so that it can be adjusted to fit many waist sizes.  This breathtaking belt could accessorize any outfit, from casual denim to elegant evening wear.

Often the conchos alternate with decorative spacers.  The most traditional form is called a butterfly, and looking at the spacers on this belt, it is easy to see why.

The belt is signed by Marcella James and is marked "Sterling."

Pretty Kitty!

This big bold vintage brooch is signed by the renown Mexican jewelry designer, Margot von Voorhies Carr, also known as Margot of Taxco.   Of shining sterling silver, with glowing amethyst eyes, this fantastic feline is a purr-fect example of Margot's creative and eye-catching designs. Her jewelry is highly sought after by collectors.   Born in the United States, Margot arrived in Mexico in 1937, where she met and married Antonio Castillo.  They settled in Taxco, a center for the production of sterling silver jewelry, flatware, and objects.  There Castillo opened Los Castillo Taller, where Margot worked as the atelier's principal designer.  After the couple divorced, in 1948 Margot set up her own taller (workshop).  Her pieces incorporated designs inspired by pre-Columbian artifacts and Mexican art.  However, following a fire in 1960 that forced her to move her studio, Margot began to suffer financial difficulties, closing her workshop in 1978. 

On the back, the brooch is clearly stamped "Margot de Taxco." The eagle stamp was issued by the Mexican government and identifies either the city of assay or the manufacturer. In the piece, the eagle carries the number "16" on its chest, the assay number registered to Margot. Other marks are "Sterling," and "5220," with is the production number.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

15145-49

Stirring Symbolism in Sterling

This superbly crafted and complex crucifix was created by renown Texas jeweler James Avery. Called the Creation Cross, this powerful pendant incorporates important symbols of Christian iconography surrounding the crucifix. At the base is the serpent, signifying the fall of man and the expulsion from the Garden of Eden. The clusters of grapes and winding vines recall John 15:1–17, in which Christ describes himself as the true vine and his disciples and followers as the fruit. Continuing up, there are candles, representing spiritual light, and doves, which embody both peace and the Holy Spirit. At the top of the cross is the eye of the ever-present God, flanked by angels, who are his messengers. Nearly three inches long, this devotional design was retired by Avery in 2011.

On the back is James Avery's mark and "STER."  

Born in Wisconsin and raised Illinois, James Avery attended the University of Illinois, where he received a degree in Industrial Design. He then taught at the University of Colorado, where he first began experimenting with jewelry making.   In 1954, Avery and his wife visited Kerrville, Texas, and it was there Avery decided to begin designing jewelry. By 1957, he mailed out his first catalog and in 1965 the company was incorporated as James Avery Craftsman, Inc.  Many of Avery's designs were inspired by his deep Christian faith.  Demand for Avery's handcrafted jewelry grew and two years later the company built its headquarters on 20 acres of land in Kerrville. Avery passed away in 2018 and his family continues the jeweler's dynasty, with 83 James Avery stores in five states. Today, James Avery jewelry continues to be crafted Texas.

All posted items are for sale at Next-to-New, but things can sell quickly!

7499-185